That would be glaciers! And the Americans, Brits and Germans all pronounce it differently. But the Franz Josef glacier takes your breath away as you drive into the small town that takes its name. It's huge -12 km long and has been in the process of both advancing and reteating in the past 50 years - but mostly retreating.
The Franz Josef Youth Hostel is full tonight. The kitchen is alive with people preparing dinner. We do a quick stir fry and walk into town which closes up on us as we arrive. We walk to the river which is a torrent of white milky water, runoff from the glacier.
The lounge is alive with people of all ages and nationalities, reading, eating a late dinner, playing board games or surfing the internet. Again we spend a very quiet night in youth hostel.
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